The Black Friar

Technically not the South Bank — the Black Friar sits on the north side of Blackfriars Bridge — but it's two minutes from the river and the best possible way to start a Thames crawl. Built in 1875 on the site of a 13th-century Dominican priory, the interior was overhauled in 1905 by architect Herbert Fuller-Clark into London's finest Arts and Crafts pub. Bronze reliefs of jolly monks drinking and singing, marble columns, mother-of-pearl inlays, mosaics with mottos like “Contentment surpasses riches.” John Betjeman campaigned to save it from demolition in the 1960s. Spend time looking up — the detail in here is extraordinary. Then cross the bridge.

The Black Friar is not old. It was built in 1875. What makes it unmissable is the 1905 interior redesign by Herbert Fuller-Clark and the sculptor Henry Poole — over 50 types of marble, mother-of-pearl inlay, copper reliefs of monks eating, drinking, and fishing, mosaic friezes, alabaster columns. Every surface is decorated, and then decorated again. The whole thing references the Dominican friars who occupied the site from the 13th century, but the execution is pure Arts and Crafts excess. In 1964, developers planned to demolish it for a road scheme. John Betjeman led the campaign that saved it, and the pub now holds Grade II* listing — the highest heritage protection any London pub has. Cross Blackfriars Bridge after this one.